STAINING YOUR DECK – TIPS & TECHNIQUES FOR STAINING YOUR DECK WITH LASTING RESULTS

Disclosure:  Some of the links below are affiliate links, meaning, at no additional cost to you, I will earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase.  As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.

So now that you have picked your deck stain (see:  STAINING YOUR DECK – HOW TO SELECT THE RIGHT DECK STAIN), it is now time to actually stain your deck.

I managed deck coatings for a major paint company for a few years and have learned all the tips and tricks to successfully staining a deck.  My goal with this post and the next few is to try and demystify everything involved with staining your deck.

DECK STAINING – A BEGINNER / INTERMEDIATE LEVEL DIY PROJECT

While staining is not an overly complicated DIY project to tackle, it is a time-consuming project with a lot of steps that must be perfectly followed if you want to have long lasting results.  Unfortunately, people tend to skip steps to get the project completed faster only to find that their stain is not lasting for the full season.  They understandably get frustrated and blame the stain, but more often than not it is due to not following the instructions completely.

With painting walls in a house, you can get away with skipping some steps and have decent results.  But keep in mind those walls are inside, they are not being put through the ringer of Mother Nature like your deck is.  A deck stain needs to stand up to rain and snow, UV rays, extreme temperatures (hot and cold), molds and mildews and insects.  On top of that it is being applied to wood which expands and contracts with the changing temperatures and can easily crack, splinter, and warp outside.  And then to top it off your deck is getting walked on and has furniture sitting on it and sometimes dragged along it.  I hope at this point you are getting the picture that your deck is undergoing a lot more stress than your indoor walls.  So unfortunately, it is even more important to complete all the steps properly for great results when staining a deck.

PREP IS THE KEY TO SUCCESS

Properly prepping a deck often is more time consuming and challenging than coating the deck, so it is the step most often skipped, but it is also the most crucial step.  Your deck surface needs to be ready for the deck stain to properly adhere to it.  If there is dirt, mildew, old stains or sealants still on the deck, the stain will not be able to fully bind to the wood and your deck coating will eventually peel off.

STEP 1:  READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS

Before you begin staining your deck, be sure to read all the instructions on the container of stain you purchased.  Each stain is formulated differently and will have slightly different instructions.  I can provide you the basic framework in this post, but there will be slight differences from stain to stain and for the best results you should follow the guidelines on the packaging.

STEP 2:  CHECK THE WEATHER FORECAST

For most deck stains the air temperature needs to be between 45 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit during application and cannot drop below this temperature for 6-48 hours.

If you are applying a clear, transparent or semi-transparent stain the temperature should remain above 45 degrees for at least 6 hours after application.

For solid stains, the air temperature should remain above 45 degrees for at least 24 hours after application and for resurfacers it is for 48 hours after application.

If the weather forecast does not meet these requirements then it is not a good time to stain your deck.  Temperatures that are too low and rain will prevent your stain from curing properly and thus lasting for a long time.

The exact temperature range for the stain you purchased will be back of the container.

TIP:  There are a few and I mean very few brands that will say they can be applied if the temperature is as low as 35 degrees Fahrenheit.  The chemists and raw material suppliers I have worked with all have said that 35 degree application temperature is not really possible.  40 degrees Fahrenheit is borderline application temperature at best.  So even if the instructions state an application temperature as low as 40 degrees Fahrenheit or less, you need to be cautious about applying the deck coating during that temperature because you are more likely to have problems with long term adhesion.

STEP 3:  REMOVE FURNITURE, COVER EXPOSED SURFACES, SWEEP SURFACE, & WATER NEARBY PLANTS

Before you start prepping your deck you need to remove all your furniture, rugs, and planters from the surface of your deck.  This may sound obvious, but I actually purchased a house where the home owner stained around the rug!  I cannot tell you how annoyed I was when I tried to throw out the rug and realized I could not because there was a large Navajo Red rectangle in the middle of my deck.

Cover the lower portion of your siding and doors with rosin paper or plastic.  You can attach these with painter’s tape.  Sometimes these coatings can splatter a little and you do not want to get any stain on these surfaces accidentally.

Be sure to sweep any dirt or debris off the surface of the deck and wet the nearby plants with a hose.  Wetting the plants will help keep them from absorbing any run off from the deck stripper or deck cleaner.

STEP 4:  PREP, PREP, PREP

There are three ways to properly prepare your deck.  Some are easier than others, but all of them will provide you with successful results.  Go ahead and skip directly to the prep instructions you plan to follow (Preparation With A Deck Stripper, Preparation With A Sander, Preparation With A Deck Primer)

PREPARATION METHOD 1:  Preparation With A Deck Stripper

As mentioned earlier, previously applied stains need to be removed prior to staining the deck.  The stain you are about to apply to your deck has been formulated to adhere to wood, not an old stain.  Stains are designed to provide waterproofing protection and thus they normally have additives that repel water.  These additives therefore also repel your new coating and you will not get as good of adhesion.

To start secure all raised nail heads and / or screws with a hammer and/or screwdriver.  If there are loose splinters remove those and replace any damaged or rotting boards with new boards.

Before using a deck stripper be sure to read all instructions and follow these precisely.  Normally when using a deck stripper, you will need to wear protective gear such as protective eye wear, longer sleeves / pants, gloves, and boots.

Start by applying the deck stripper to the deck.  The easiest way to do this is by using a pump sprayer.  Then use a deck brush to fully scrub the deck stripper into the wood all over the entirety of the deck.  Then let it sit for 15-20 minutes (or however long the directions specify).  Next wash the stripper off with a hose or pressure washer (TIP: be careful when using a pressure washer on wood.  Pressure washers are very powerful and can damage your wood.  When using a pressure washer, it is good to use a 40 degree tip and a PSI of 1500-2500 for pressure treated wood and 500-1000 for Cedar and Redwood).

Next clean the deck using a deck cleaner.  The easiest way to do this is also by using a pump sprayer, spraying the entire surface with deck cleaner, and then using a deck brush to scrub.  If you have a pressure washer, you can add a deck cleaner concentrate to the pressure washer so you can clean and wash in one step.

After cleaning the surface, it is time to check to assure that the wood has been properly prepared.  You can do this my conducting a splash test.  To conduct a splash test, pour a small amount of water on multiple areas of the deck.  If the water absorbs quickly into the wood, the surface is ready to be stained.

Finally allow your deck to completely dry for 24-48 hours prior to coating your deck.

PREPARATION METHOD 2:  Preparation With A Sander

Another way to remove an old stain or sealant is to completely sand the entire deck before staining.  As mentioned earlier, previously applied stains need to be removed prior to staining the deck.  The stain you are about to apply to your deck has been formulated to adhere to wood, not an old stain.  Stains are designed to provide waterproofing protection and thus they normally have additives that repel water.  These additives therefore also repel your new coating and you will not get as good of adhesion.

To start secure all raised nail heads and / or screws with a hammer and/or screwdriver.  If there are loose splinters remove those and replace any damaged or rotting boards with new boards.

Using an electric hand sander and 60 grit sand paper, sand the entire deck.  If you prefer you can use a pole sander, but I think this takes a lot more time and work to use effectively.  Sanding will remove the old coating or sealant and will open the pores of the wood, creating a textured surface that is easier for the coating to adhere to.

Next clean the deck using a deck cleaner.  The easiest way to do this is also by using a pump sprayer, spraying the entire surface with deck cleaner, and then using a deck brush to scrub.  If you have a pressure washer, you can add a deck cleaner concentrate to the pressure washer so you can clean and wash in one step.

After cleaning the surface, it is time to check to assure that the wood has been properly prepared.  You can do this my conducting a splash test.  To conduct a splash test, pour a small amount of water on multiple areas of the deck.  If the water absorbs quickly into the wood, the surface is ready to be stained.

Finally allow your deck to completely dry for 24-48 hours prior to coating your deck.

PREPARATION METHOD 3:  Preparation With A Deck Primer

Preparation with a deck primer is the easiest and fastest way to prepare a deck, however it can only be used with a solid stain or resurfacer.  If you are using a solid stain or resurfacer, this is definitely the way to go and the best deck primer is Rust-Oleum’s Deck Start Primer which can be used with any solid stain or resurfacer.  It will also save you time because it can be applied to damp wood.

To start secure all raised nail heads and / or screws with a hammer and/or screwdriver.  If there are loose splinters remove those and replace any damaged or rotting boards with new boards.

Next clean the deck using a deck cleaner.  The easiest way to do this is also by using a pump sprayer, spraying the entire surface with deck cleaner, and then using a deck brush to scrub.  If you have a pressure washer, you can add a deck cleaner concentrate to the pressure washer so you can clean and wash in one step.

Remove all standing water with a deck brush or squeegee and let the wood dry for an hour before applying.

Start by applying the primer to the railings, spindles, and balusters using a synthetic bristle brush.  Next apply to the horizontal surface of the deck using a 3/8” nap roller.  Apply generously back and forth all over the deck’s surface to ensure good penetration.  The primer will go on milky white and dry clear.  I have heard many people compare it to glue.  Let it dry for 1-2 hours before applying the solid topcoat over the primer.  Make sure even the cracks and nail head areas are clear before applying the solid stain or resurfacer.

STEP 5:  STAIN APPLICATION

Before you start staining, mix the coating thoroughly.  If you are using multiple gallons of stain, combine all the containers or equal parts from each container into 1 or multiple buckets to ensure color consistency.  Repeat mixing occasionally during application.  The components of the stain may separate while sitting for a while so it is important to remember to do this.

It is often easiest and smartest for optimizing the time it will take to stain your deck, to start with staining the railings, spindles and banisters first.  After that is complete cut in around edges of the deck and coat visible areas between the deck boards with a brush.

Now it is time to coat the horizontal section of the deck.  If you are coating your deck in a clear, transparent or semi-transparent stain, a deck stain pad is the easiest tool to use to coat your deck.  For solid stains, I recommend a 3/8″ nap roller and for resurfacers a 1/2″ nap roller.  Some resurfacers require the use of a special honeycomb roller that is designed to work with that particular coating.  If you purchase a resurfacer check on the instructions to see if it requires a special roller cover and if it does you need to purchase that roller cover or you will not have satisfactory results.

Saturate the stain pad or roller with stain and then roll back and forth working to a wet edge at all times.

If your coating requires a second coat (per instructions or preference), allow the coating to dry 3-4 hours (or whatever the instructions specify) before applying a second coat.  Apply the second coat the same way as the first.

Allow the second coat to dry 24-72 hours (depending on the instructions of the stain) before walking on the surface.  Allow 48 hours – 1 week (depending on the instructions of the stain) before returning furniture to your deck.

Dry times are typically based off the optimal application temperature of 70 degrees, so allow more time to dry at lower temperatures.

CLEANING UP

After you have finished staining your deck it is time to clean up.  Use soap and water to clean tools if you used a water-based stain and use mineral spirits to clean if you used an oil-based stain.  It is important to clean your tools before the product dries because it is much harder to remove once it has.

MAINTAINING YOUR DECK

To keep your deck looking its best for a longer time it is important to sweep or blow clean dirt and debris from the deck regularly.  If your deck requires a deeper cleaning you can used a deck cleaner to clean the surface.  Do not use the pressure washer when cleaning a deck stain as it will hurt the adhesion with the wood and will likely strip the surface.

For best results, it is a good idea to remove snow from your deck.  Use only a plastic shovel so as not to scrape the stain.  Also, never use salt on the coating.

FOLLOWING THESE INSTRUCTIONS WILL LEAD TO LONG LASTING RESULTS

I hope I have answered any questions you may have about staining your deck.  I know that reading through all of this and the specific instructions on your products can be intimidating, but it is not as hard as it sounds.  The minutes spent focusing on the instructions and details in prep and application will ultimately save you far more time if it ensures you have a great looking result on the first try.  Not only will you have longer lasting results with your stain, but the stain will protect your wood deck so you can enjoy your deck with your family for years to come.

If you have any questions, please reply in the comments below and I will be happy to answer them.